Washington

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Washington, D.C., is the ultimate company town: More than a quarter of the population works for the federal government. Yet the government is at the core of a remarkably diversified local economy. The promise of procurement dollars and the demands of lobbying motivate one in ten Fortune 500 companies to maintain an office in the district, and innumerable media outlets, law firms, think tanks, associations, and NGOs thrive in the federal orbit. The national economy may ebb and flow, but a steady influx of tax dollars keeps D.C. perpetually flush.

Where to Sleep
Street addresses in Washington, D.C. are followed by one of four designations—N.W., N.E., S.W., S.E.—reflecting the district’s division into four quadrants, centered on the Capitol dome. Most visitors, unless they’ve got business on Capitol Hill, spend the majority of their time in upscale Northwest D.C., around the National Mall and the neighborhoods of DuPont Circle and Georgetown, a walkable historic district with tony boutiques and antiques stores. Some of the best hotels are located near the White House; the finest—the venerable Willard InterContinental—has played host to almost every president from Franklin Pierce to George W. Bush. Inveterate shoppers should book a room at Georgetown’s Four Seasons or at the nearby Ritz-Carlton, where comedian David Chappelle and country music singer Keith Urban recently stayed. The notorious Watergate Hotel, just south of Georgetown in Foggy Bottom, is closed through 2009 for a much-needed face-lift. Travelers with a yen for Cold War–era D.C. can stay at the massive Hilton Washington, a modernist DuPont Circle landmark acquired in late May 2007 by a group of Los Angeles investors, including Magic Johnson. Buffs of an earlier historical era might prefer to stay at the Hotel Monaco, in Penn Quarter, which occupies a quirkily restored 1839 landmark designed by Robert Mills, architect of the Washington Monument.

Where to Eat
A handful of adventuresome restaurateurs have opened establishments in downtown D.C.’s rapidly gentrifying Penn Quarter district. A few blocks down from Bed, Bath & Beyond and the MCI Center are trendy upscale eateries such as Oya (French-Asian) and Zaytinya (Mediterranean). When the weather’s right, the hottest reservation in town is a terrace table at the Sequoia, an American contemporary restaurant along the Potomac River in Georgetown. Talk show host Larry King frequents The Palm, a downtown steak house that recently underwent a major restoration. A longtime favorite of Bill Clinton’s, Restaurant Nora pioneered organic cooking in Washington, D.C.; its private dining rooms in a DuPont Circle row house remain a favored venue for larger parties. Another D.C. food stable that’s still going strong is Vidalia. Chef de cuisine R. J. Cooper III was named Best Chef in the Mid Atlantic earlier this year by the James Beard Foundation. Don’t miss the restaurant’s signature dish: shrimp and grits.

Where to See and Be Seen
“Party hearty” takes on an entirely different meaning among D.C.’s professional class, for whom a night of excess can end in an uncomfortable congressional probe. Fortunately, the city’s international residents keep things lively: Many, emboldened perhaps by diplomatic immunity, gravitate to boîtes like The Space, a recently opened members-only lounge in an old carriage house near the Washington Convention Center. Lieven DeGeyndt and Andre Demoya, the Ian Schrager and Steve Rubell of D.C. nightlife, pack in young revelers at Eyebar, a minimalist, bi-level lounge that keeps George and Laura awake at the nearby White House. If you’re more into dancing than lounging, the best DJs (Mark Farina, Frankie Knuckles) are to be found at nearby Five, a club with a rooftop deck that’s open year-round. While few Washingtonians are willing to leave their Northwest comfort zone, the promise of mingling with P. Diddy and Natalie Portman draws crowds to H2O, a restaurant and lounge on the waterfront in Southwest Washington.

Where to Close a Deal
Given the hush-hush nature of so much that goes on in town, Washingtonians prefer to rendezvous behind closed doors. The University Club and the Army and Navy Club (both of which also have guest rooms and gyms), like many clubs in D.C., have excellent reciprocal privileges with other clubs. The most spectacular setting is undoubtedly that of the Cosmos, where members (including, reportedly, Sandra Day O’Connor) meet in a Beaux Arts mansion on Embassy Row. For a clubby atmosphere without the membership requirements, 1789 Restaurant is in a quiet Georgetown row house with a wood-burning fireplace, antique furniture, and hot new chef Nathan Beauchamp. In summer, a good spot for a quiet drink is the Sky Terrace at the Hotel Washington, which has unbeatable views of the Washington Monument and the National Mall.

Local Codes
Unless you work for or with the federal government, expect to find yourself left out of much local shop talk. A quick scan of the Washington Post will give outsiders a leg up. Beware of acronyms. Take NEA, for instance: Is it National Endowment for the Arts or National Education Association? Navigating the city streets can be equally bewildering. D.C.’s rational organization into four quadrants is complicated by dozens of diagonal avenues and traffic circles, which manage to confuse even lifelong residents. Don’t be shy of the world-class Metro subway system, with its spectacular vaulted stations. The trains are reliable, clean, and safe. Taxis are a bit trickier: They don’t have meters—drivers charge according to an arcane and highly suspect zone system—and don’t be surprised if your cabbie picks up a second fare, which is his right if your new companion doesn’t divert you by more than a few blocks. The indigenous dress code is pointedly sober. Pack your most conservative suit.

Airport Intelligence
Three major airports serve the district. Domestic flyers should aim for Reagan National Airport, which is compact, easy to navigate, and only a ten-minute cab or Metro ride from downtown D.C. Dulles International Airport, in northern Virginia, boasts a spectacular main terminal designed by Eero Saarinen, along with endless security lines and an antiquated and unavoidable shuttle service between terminals. A taxi to Dulles can take over an hour in traffic, and the Metro doesn’t go there at all. International travelers are better off using Baltimore/Washington International Airport (BWI), which is just as far from downtown D.C. as Dulles but offers more up-to-date facilities and regular train service to Washington’s Union Station.

The Three-Hour Tour
Take advantage of the remarkable museums along the National Mall—your tax dollars keep the lights on, and the admission is free of charge. Start at the National Gallery (modern and contemporary art in architect I. M. Pei’s trapezoidal East Building, Vermeers and Impressionists in the neoclassical West Building). Moving west, step into the Archives for a peek at the Declaration of Independence. The National Museum of Natural History opposite recently reopened the elegant Audobon Gallery to the public after decades of limited access; exhibits feature original works by the noted naturalist John James, as well as his two sons. Lastly, cross the Mall to the Freer and Sackler Galleries and the spectacular Peacock Room, designed by James McNeill Whistler to house a collection of Chinese blue-and-white porcelain.    

–Ned Cramer