Berlin

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In 1989, the city was divided, the fault line in the Cold War standoff between East and West. Today, the once-armed no-man's-land at Potsdamer Platz has become a bustling city center. The former East Germany's central bank building now hosts an exclusive luxury hotel. And the decaying, bomb-damaged Mitte area has been rebuilt into one of the most vibrant districts in Europe, with outstanding architecture, from Sir Norman Foster's restoration of the Reichstag to Peter Eisenman's Holocaust memorial. German reunification and the healing of Europe's division are nowhere more tangible than here, where "New Europe's" modern attitudes reign.

Divided and isolated from the West for decades, Berlin has little industry today, and high-level executives travel to the city to lobby government officials. The business community that comes through here is very international and not rooted in local culture. And any place a business traveler goes in town is likely to be situated in new construction or a renovated property in the former East Berlin, and to have a short history.

Where to Sleep
For years, the Regent (previously the Four Seasons) was the most popular digs for international travelers. Located near historic Gendarmenmarkt and known for its personal service and elegant design, it's still the Berlin hotel of choice for Citigroup exec Charles Prince, and Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes, who are regulars. But there is now a lot of buzz among Berliners about the elegant Hotel de Rome, in a building that was the headquarters of Dresdner Bank until 1945 and, after the war, housed the East German central bank. Following extensive renovation, it opened last year, the bank's original classical lines offsetting the new Art Deco-style furnishings. If you talk to American CEOs, though, almost everyone would say their favorite Berlin hotel is the Adlon Kempinski. It's where execs like Meg Whitman (eBay CEO) and Jeffrey Immelt (chairman and CEO of GE) stay when they're in town, and Queen Elizabeth and presidents Bill Clinton and George W. Bush have checked in on state visits. Built in 1907 and destroyed near the end of World War II, the hotel was rebuilt and reopened in 1997 on the original's location overlooking the Brandenburg Gate. The Library, a cozy dining room with a Brandenburg Gate view, is good for private meetings with German politicians, whose offices are just a short walk away.

Where to Eat
Since Berlin's center of gravity has shifted to the east, it is here that you will find some of its best restaurants. At Potsdamer Platz, Facil, an airy gourmet restaurant on the fifth floor of the Mandala Hotel, has fusion cuisine and a Zen-like ambience and is frequented by visiting Hollywood stars, German film industry bigwigs, and business executives. Vau, near Gendarmenmarkt, has a following among Germany's movers and shakers for its modern cuisine, exclusive wine list, and contemporary design (be sure to make a reservation: The restaurant has been booked practically every night for the past two years). Friedrichshain, a neighborhood once preferred by East German bureaucrats, has become a hip district for students, artists, and well-heeled music industry types from Universal Music and MTV, which have offices here. At Chez Maurice, a posh French restaurant in the neighborhood, German chancellor Angela Merkel is a regular (she loves the Blutwurst, or black pudding). Business executives and local real estate investors who have snapped up undervalued Berlin property go for Lutter & Wegner's formal traditionalism, classic Austro-German cuisine, and wine list with more than 750 vintages (it's strong on exquisite—and high-priced—rieslings). Young dot-commers like the informality and large outdoor terrace at Pan Asia, in trendy Mitte.

Where to See and Be Seen
At the brasserie Borchardt's, on Französische Strasse near Gendarmenmarkt, eating takes a backseat to celebrity sighting: On any given day, you might bump into Mick Jagger, Tom Cruise, Sharon Stone, or the chancellor and half her cabinet. (The catcher's mitt-sized Wiener schnitzel, though, is legendary). Ask a politician where he'd like to go for lunch and he'll likely say Bocca di Bacco, the classy Italian restaurant of the moment, with huge glass windows overlooking posh Friedrichstrasse; the wine list is exceptional. It's mostly media types at Hugo's, on the roof of the Hotel InterContinental, with a breathtaking panorama of central Berlin—it's where Sabine Christiansen, a leading German talk show hostess, threw her farewell party after her last show recently. Close to the Hotel Adlon, Café Einstein is the place for a power breakfast; former U.S. ambassador and current Lazard Germany head John Kornblum often meets guests here for morning coffee, as do politicians, lobbyists, and journalists.

Where to Close a Deal
Whether they're looking to do business or engage in some lobbying, executives often choose a members-only club for its privacy—especially for its protection from the prying eyes of the media. Two standouts are the China Club, around the corner from the Adlon, with six-foot-high booths and a seemingly nonexistent crowd, and the Berlin Capital Club, on the top floor of the Hilton Hotel, with a clubby cigar room (for non-members, an invitation by a member smoothes admission). You can also find privacy in another Berlin institution: the back room. Most restaurants have a private dining room that can be booked for business meetings and entertaining; the rooms are in high demand, though, so reserve early.

Local Codes
It may seem like a stereotype, but Germans are always on time—so being less than punctual is considered disrespectful. To be on the safe side, show up about ten minutes early for a meeting. If the person you are speaking with has a doctorate, it's safe to address him (or her) as Dr. So-and-So. Cabs are plentiful and easy to find at designated areas or you can just flag them down on a busy street, but be prepared to pay cash: Very few take credit cards. Once you've left the posh hotels and restaurants, you'll encounter the infamous Berliner Schnauze (literally the Berlin mouth). It's akin to New Yorker rudeness and is not necessarily ill-intended, just part of the protocol, a certain level of brash unfriendliness to get the conversation going. Don't take it personally—just be firm and stay cool.

Airport Intelligence
About 30 minutes from the city center by car, Tegel is Berlin's main airport, with connections to European capitals and other major international destinations. Schönefeld will be expanded and modernized to become the city's international airport, but for now it remains a construction project nearly an hour's drive outside the city center or a 36-minute train ride from Alexanderplatz. It's a hub for discount airlines with cheap connections to European cities. Neither Tegel nor Schönefeld offer much for waiting flyers: just self-service restaurants and Wi-Fi access that's patchy and not free.

The Three-Hour Tour
Berlin Mitte is the center of the city, home to landmarks such as the Brandenburg Gate, the Reichstag, and the Holocaust Memorial. But it is also one of Europe's most vibrant arts centers. Starting at Oranienburger Tor, walk toward the Synagogue to Auguststrasse and turn left, following the street to Kunstwerke, a gallery space that has become one of the most important venues for contemporary European art. Eigen & Art, the leading gallery, is nearby. There are more than a dozen galleries on and near Auguststrasse, so take your time and walk around, and if you get hungry, stop at one of the cafés or the bar Hackbarths, a local artists hangout.    

-William Bofton